Amigurumi Cute Doll Free Pattern

Amigurumi Cute Doll Free Pattern

Crochet pattern

MATERIALS

• 2.25 mm – 1/B crochet hook

• 5 different yarns for 2.25 mm crochet hook

• leftover black yarns

• Tapestry or large sewing needle

• Stitch marker (optional, I use yarn)

• Fiberfill stuffing

YARNS

• Fibra Natura Cotton True Sport – 14 (body)

• Fibra Natura Cotton True Sport – 04 (hair)

• Fibra Natura Cotton True Sport – 18 (underwear, bunny)

• Himalaya Perlina – 50134 (dress)

• Fibra Natura Cotton True Sport – 13 (bunny)

Finished size and gauge

Josephine is approximately 19 cm / 7.5 inches tall. Exact gauge is not necessary for this project. If you use a bigger hook, she will be bigger. Her measurements will change depending on the hook and yarn you use. It’s important to crochet tight, to avoid the stuffing showing up after filling.

Notes and abbreviations

The pattern is written in US American crochet terms.

 You will use these stitches:

st = stitch

ch = chain

sl st = slip stitch

sc = single crochet

hdb = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

sk = skip

BLO = back loops only

FLO = front loops only

FO = fasten off

Yo = yarn over

Rep = repeat

dec = decrease

inc = increase

Invisible decrease: A method of decreasing. Insert hook into the front loop of the next two stitches and pull a loop up through both. Yarn over and pull through last two loops left on the hook.

Josephine is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise instructed.

Amigurumi Cute Doll Free Pattern

Head

Rnd 1. 6 sc into magic ring (6) (Instead of a

magic ring, you can form a ring with ch 3)

Rnd 2. 2 sc in each sts around (12)

Rnd 3. {sc in the next, inc} rep 6 (18)

Rnd 4. {sc in the next 2, inc} rep 6 (24)

Rnd 5. {sc in the next 3, inc} rep 6 (30)

Rnd 6. {sc in the next 4, inc} rep 6 (36)

Rnd 7. {sc in the next 5, inc} rep 6 (42)

Rnd 8. {sc in the next 6, inc} rep 6 (48)

Rnd 9-19 sc into each stitch around (48)

Rnd 20. {sc in the next 6, dec} rep 6 (42)

Rnd 21. {sc in the next 5, dec} rep 6 (36)

Rnd 22. {sc in the next 4, dec} rep 6 (30)

Rnd 23. {sc in the next 3, dec} rep 6 (24)

Rnd 24. {sc in the next 2, dec} rep 6 (18)

Start to stuff the head

Rnd 25. {sc in the next st, dec} rep 6 (12)

Continue to stuff the head firmly

Rnd 26. sc into each st around FLO (12)

Body

Rnd 27. {sc in the next 2, inc} rep 4 (16)

Rnd 28. BLO {sc in the next 3, inc} rep 4 (20)

Rnd 29. sc into each (20)

Rnd 30. {sc in the next 4, inc} rep 4 (24)

Rnd 31. sc into each (24)

Rnd 32. {sc in the next 5, inc} rep 4 (28)

Rnd 33-36. sc into each (28)

Rnd 37. {sc in the next 6, inc} rep 4 (32)

Rnd 38-41. sc into each (32)

Fasten off and weave end. You will cont with the

underwear after making the dress.

Rnd 28.

Dress

Now go back to Rnd 28 of the body where you can see there the front loops wherein we’re going to start crocheting the dress. Join with a sc. Finish each row of the dress with a sl st, than ch 1 before you start the following rows. Ch 1 doesn’t count as a sc.

Row 1. {sc in the next, inc} rep 8 (24)

Row 2. sc into each (24)

Row 3. {sc in the next 3, inc} rep 6 (30)

Row 4-6. sc into each (30)

Front loops

Finish each row with a sl st, than ch 3 before you start the following rows. Ch 3 COUNTS as a dc.

Row 7. BLO {dc, inc} rep 15 (45)

Row 8-15. dc into each (45)

Change to white yarn.

Row 16. Join with a sc, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc into next, {ch 2, sk 1 st, sc into next} rep all along. Join with a sl st when you reach the firs sc.

Change back to purple yarn.

Row 17. ch 1 {sc, 2 dc, sc} into the ch 2 space all along (22 shells)

Fasten off, weave ends.

For the tier count 15-15 stitches on both sides from the back at row 7 of the dress (where you can find the front loops). Place two pins. Turn the doll upside down. With white yarn ch 20 and join with a sl st into the front loop of the dress. Crochet slip stitches all along into the front loops, and when you reach the other marker crochet ch 20. Fasten off and make a nice bow.

Legs

Now you need to mark the places where you will start to crochet the legs.

Place the doll in front of you, flatten it and mark the places of the legs: 9 stitches for both legs and 3-3 stitches between them on both sides. The bow of the dress should be in the middle (of the legs) while you mark the places.

With skin colour join with a sc for the doll’s leg. When you reach your marker just simply join the other side with a sc.

Row 1-16. sc into each (9)

Cont to stuff the body and start to stuff the leg.

Underwear

Turn the doll’s dress up and with white yarn join with a sc at the back of the doll’s body.

Rnd 1-2. sc into each (32)

Rnd 3. {sc in the next 6, dec} rep 4 (28)

Rnd 4. sc into each (28)

Rnd 5. {sc in the next 5, dec} rep 4 (24)

Rnd 4. sc into each (24)

Fasten off and start to stuff the body.

The bow is in the middle

Left leg Right leg

3 st here

9 st here 9 st here When you reach your marker just simply join the other side with a sc.

Arms

Rnd 1. 6 sc into magic ring (6)

Rnd 2. {sc into 2, inc} rep 2 (8)

Rnd 3-4. sc into each (8)

Rnd 5. {sc into 2, dec} rep 2 (6)

Rnd 6-17. sc into each (6)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Place the arms onto the body, secure them with a few pins and sew them carefully onto their place.

Now place the doll in front of you, and mark the two middle stitches next to each other in front of the doll’s leg, as shown in the picture. In the following round you will have to increase where you marked those stitches:

Rnd 17. inc into the marked stitches and sc into each of the others (11)

Rnd 18. inc into each stitches you increased at rnd

17, sc into each of the other st (15)

Rnd 19. sc into each (15)

Rnd 20. dec each st, sc into last (8)

Stuff the leg firmly, fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Use the yarn and a needle to close up the hole by stitching back and forth across the opening. Weave yarn into the legs.

Before you start the other leg, close the three stitches hole between the two legs.

Make the other leg by joining at the back of the doll.

One more hair strand into the same st

Hair

Work into BLO all along crocheting the wig.

Rnd 1. 6 sc into magic ring (6)

Rnd 2. 2 sc in each sts around (12)

Rnd 3. {sc in the next st, inc} rep 6 (18)

Rnd 4. {sc in the next 2, inc} rep 6 (24)

Rnd 5. {sc in the next 3, inc} rep 6 (30)

Rnd 6. {sc in the next 4, inc} rep 6 (36)

Rnd 7. {sc in the next 5, inc} rep 6 (42)

Rnd 8. sc into each (42) Do not fasten off.

(*Ch 20, turn to 2nd ch from hook with a sl st, and sl st all along back (19) Make one more hair strand into the same stitch.*)

{Join with a sl st into the next st of the wig and repeat (**)} 5 times (12 hair strands in 6 stitches of the wig) Join with a sl st into the next st and make two

For the following 12 stitches of the wig you will make only one hair strand into each st: Ch 20, turn to 2nd ch from hook with a sl st, and sl st all along back (all in all: 24 hair strands in 18 stitches of the wig)

For the following 6 stitches of the wig you will make 2 hair strands into each st:

Ch 20, turn to 2nd ch from hook with a sl st, and sl st all along back (all in all: 36 hair strands in 24 stitches of the wig)

For the following 18 stitches of the wig you

will make the bangs:

(*Ch 10, turn to 2nd ch from hook with a sl st, and sl st all along back*) (9)

{Join with a sl st into the next st of the wig and repeat (**)} 17 times (36 long hair strands in 24 stitches of the wig and 18 short hair strands in 18 stitches of the wig)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

12 hair strands in 6 sitches 12 hair strands in 6 stitches 12 hair strands in 12 sitches

Place the hair onto the doll’s head and secure it with a few pins. Sew it carefully onto the head where the wig meets the hair strands.

Now secure the hair strands onto the head with pins and sew the top part of the strands onto the head with a few stitches. The 6-6 stitches where you crocheted the 2 hair strands, sew only every second strand onto the head. Sew the bangs onto the head as well.

Eyes & nose

Place two-two pins between rnds 15 and 16 for the eyes as shown in the pictures.

The eyes are 6 stitches apart. Embroider the eyes with black yarn as shown.

2 stitches

between

the pins

2 stitches

between

the pins

For the nose place two pins between rounds 17 and 18, two stitches apart from

the second lashes of the eyes. Embroider the nose with body colour.

Hat

Rnd 1. 6 sc into magic ring (6)

Rnd 2. {sc in the next st, inc} rep 3 (9)

Rnd 3-4. sc into each st around (9)

Rnd 5. {sc in the next 2, inc} rep 3 (12)

Rnd 6-9. sc into each st around (12)

Rnd 10. {sc in the next 3, inc} rep 3 (15)

Rnd 11-13. sc into each st around (15)

Rnd 14. {sc in the next 4, inc} rep 3 (18)

Rnd 15-16 sc into each stitch around (18)

Rnd 17. {sc in the next 5, inc} rep 3 (21)

Rnd 18-19. sc into each stitch around (21)

Rnd 20. {sc in the next 6, inc} rep 3 (24)

Rnd 21. sc into each stitch around (24)

Rnd 22. {sc in the next 5, inc} rep 4 (28)

Rnd 23. sc into each stitch around (28)

Rnd 24. {sc in the next 6, inc} rep 4 (32)

Try to crochet the hat loosely.

Rnd 25-26. sc into each stitch around (32)

Rnd 27. {sc in the next 7, inc} rep 4 (36)

Rnd 28. sc into each stitch around (36)

Rnd 29. {sc in the next 5, inc} rep 6 (42)

Rnd 30. sc into each stitch around (42)

Rnd 31. {sc in the next 6, inc} rep 6 (48)

Rnd 32. sc into each stitch around (48)

Rnd 33. {sc in the next 7, inc} rep 6 (54)

Rnd 34-38. sc into each stitch around (54)

Fasten off, weave end.

You may add some extra rounds to reach the

desired length for the hat.

Make a pompon for the hat:

Grab a fork and wrap your yarn

around the prongs of your fork

several times and then cut the

end of the yarn. Cut a long piece

of yarn, and thread beneath your

yarn wraps between 2nd and 3rd

fork prong. Pass the other end of

the yarn between the prongs. Pull

both ends and tie into a tight

knot. Slip yarn bundle off the fork.

Snip through all the loops of yarn.

Trim any uneven ends.

Tie it onto the top of the hat.

Ears

ch 9, hdc into the 2nd ch from hook, dc into the next 5 stitches, hdc into the next 2

stitches. Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing. Place them onto the head, secure

it with a few pins and sew them carefully onto their places.

Little bunny

Head

Rnd 1. 6 sc into magic ring (6)

Rnd 2. 2 sc in each sts around (12)

Rnd 3. {sc in the next st, inc} rep 6 (18)

Rnd 4. {sc in the next 2, inc} rep 6 (24)

Rnd 5-8. sc into each stitch around (24)

Rnd 9. {sc in the next 2, dec} rep 6 (18)

Rnd 10. {sc in the next st, dec} rep 6 (12)

Start to stuff the head.

Rnd 11. dec all stitches (6)

Stuff the head firmly. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Use the yarn and a needle to close up the hole by stitching back and forth across the opening.

Weave yarn into the head.

Embroider the nose onto the head. Place two pins between rnds 6 and 7, 2 stitches apart as shown in the picture.

Granny square for the body

Follow the diagram to crochet the body of the bunny. After row 5 change colour to pink.

See below the written instruction.

You may add a ch 1 space between each cluster of 3 dc. There’s almost no difference between the

space made naturally between the 3 dc or the space made with a ch 1, so that’s just really up to you to add or not.

Rnd 1. Ch 4, and form a ring. Into the ring:

ch 3, 2 dc, you now have a cluster of three dc because the first chain three counts as the

first dc. Chain 2: this creates the first corner. 3 dc into the ring, ch 2 to make your next corner. Rep that previous step twice more. Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the first “chain three” to close the round.

Rnd 2. Ch 3, 2 dc into the same corner. Into the following corner: 3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc. Rep in

the next corner. 3 dc, chain two into the last corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the first “chain three” to close the round.

Rnd 3. Ch 3, 2 dc into the same corner. 3 dc into the next space (not a corner!). Into the

following corner: 3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc. Rep the previous two steps around the square. When

you get to the last corner, 3 dc, ch 2 and sl st to the 3rd ch of the first “chain three” to close the round.

Rnd 4-6. You can continue increasing the size of your granny square by work 3 dc, 2 ch,

3 dc in each corner and 3 dc in each space between the corners. Change colour at rnd 6.

You are ready with Josephine, the sleeping doll. I hope you enjoyed making her as much as I enjoyed making this pattern. Don’t forget, if you have any questions or need clarifications on any of the instructions, I’m here to help you!

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