Amigurumi Dragon Free Pattern

Amigurumi Dragon Free Pattern

***PLEASE READ THROUGH THE ENTIRE

PATTERN BEFORE YOU BEGIN***

Stitches and techniques used.

Slip stitch

Insert hook in next st, yo and draw through all loops.

Single crochet

Insert hook in next st and draw up a loop (2 loops on hook), yo, draw through both loops on hook.

Single Crochet Decrease [ 2-sc dec ]

Insert hook in next st and draw up a loop, (two loops on hook), insert hook in next stitch, draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo and draw through all 3 loops.

Single crochet Invisible decrease [ 2-sc inv dec]

Please note that when making the invisible decrease you will be working in the front loops only of your two stitches. Insert your hook into the front loop only of the first stitch. Do not yarn over and pull up yarn as you would in a traditional decrease. Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch. You will need to turn the tip of your crochet hook downward to do this. Then swing your crochet hook up, and under the front loop of the 2nd stitch. You now have 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first 2 loops on your crochet hook, leaving 2 loops on your hook. Then yarn over again and pull yarn through the last 2 loops on your crochet hook.

Magic adjustable ring

First make a loop with your yarn leaving 3″ long tail. Insert hook in centre of loop made, yo and draw up loop. YO, pull through to make your first chain. (Do not count this as your first sc) Continue to crochet over the loop and the yarn tail until you have the required number of sc for your first round. For example, if the pattern calls for 6 scs, then sc 6 times into

the ring. (Insert hook into the center of the ring and draw up loop, YO and draw through both loops.) When you’re finished, pull the tail to close the ring.

Always move your stitch marker up at the end of each row as you will be working in continuous rounds. Stitch count is in ( ) at the end of each row.

YOU WILL NEED

— 3mm crochet hook

— Approx 100g of Aran/worsted weight yarn

— Small amount of contrasting colour (approx. 25g) for the hands, feet, nose

— A third colour yarn in D.K/light worsted for the spikes and spots 

— Toy stuffing

— Embroidery cotton/yarn for the eyes

— Scissors

— Stitch marker (scrap of yarn)

— Tapestry needle

ABBREVIATIONS

— Sc – single crochet

— Inc – increase

— 2-sc inc – single crochet increase

— 2-sc inv dec – single crochet invisible decrease

— St – stitch

— Ch – chain

— Rep – repeat

— Sl st – slip stitch

Button’s head and body are worked as one piece. You will be starting at the top of the head.

Use your main colour yarn throughout until otherwise stated.

1. 6sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place marker (6)

2. [ 2-sc inc ] rep (12)

3. [ sc x 1, 2-sc inc ] rep (18)

4. [ sc x 2, 2-sc inc ] rep (24)

5. [ sc x 3, 2-sc inc ] rep (30)

6. [ sc x 4, 2-sc inc ] rep (36)

7. [ sc x 5, 2-sc inc ] rep (42)

8. [ sc x 6, 2-sc inc ] rep (48)

9-14. [ sc in each st ] (48)

You will now begin to work the head

15. [ sc x 36, Join to the 1st st with a sc ] (36)

You will be leaving the last 12 stitches unworked as you will go back to this later to start the neck. See pictures below.

16-19. [ sc in each st ] (36)

**Change to contrasting colour for nose**

20-22. [ sc in each st ] (36)

23. [ sc x 4, 2-sc inv dec ] rep (30)

24. [ sc x 3, 2-sc inv dec ] rep (24)

Start to stuff the head now and continue to stuff firmly as you decrease to close the head.

25. [ sc x 2, 2-sc inv dec ] rep (18)

26. [ sc x 1, 2-sc inv dec ] rep (12)

27. [ 2-sc inv dec ] rep (6)

Sl st into the next st to finish off. Using your tapestry needle weave through the last 6 stitches and pull tightly to close the head. Secure and hide your tail of yarn inside the head.

You will now begin to work the neck and body.

Make a slip knot in your new yarn but leave a little tail before the knot. *Do not work over the tail as you do your first round* See 1st picture below Turn the head upside down and join yarn in the next stitch as if you were carrying on where you left off.

*I don’t bother with a marker until the end of round 20, It just makes it a little easier to count each row as I go*

16. Ch 1 (counts as 1st st) [ sc in each st ] (12)

17-20. [ sc in each st ] (12)

Using your tapestry needle go back to the tail of yarn you left when beginning round 16. There will be a small gap, neatly sew the gap closed, secure and hide the tail inside the head. (pictures below)

Place marker. You will now begin increasing to make the body.

21. [ sc x 1, 2-sc inc ] rep (18)

22-23. [ sc in each st ] (18)

24. [ sc x 2, 2-sc inc ] rep (24)

25-26. [ sc in each st ] (24)

Begin to stuff the neck firmly now

27. [ sc x 3, 2-sc inc ] rep (30)

28-29. [ sc in each st ] (30)

30. [ sc x 4, 2-sc inc ] rep (36)

31-32. [ sc in each st ] (36)

33. [ sc x 5, 2-sc inc ] rep (42)

34-35. [ sc in each st ] (42)

36. [ sc x 6, 2-sc inc ] rep (48)

37-46. [ sc in each st ] (48)

You will now begin to make the legs. Count back 12 stitches from the end of row 46 and place a marker. Stuff the body firmly but not fully, leave approx. 2 inches unstuffed.

*****Please note if the legs look like they’re not going to be straight, don’t worry…. Just flatten the bottom of the body with the head facing forward as in the first picture below, using a couple of stitch markers split the bottom of the body 24 stitches each side to make the legs and carry on as below****

1st leg

47. Sc x 12, join with a sc to the stitch where you placed the other marker and sc in the last

12 stiches (24)

48-56. [ sc in each st around ] (24)

Change to contrasting colour

57-58. [sc in each st ] (24)

Stuff the rest of the body and the leg, continue to add more stuffing as you decrease to close  the leg.

59. [ sc x 2, 2-sc inv dec ] rep (18)

60. [ sc x 1, 2-sc inv dec ] rep (12)

61. [ 2-sc inv dec ] rep (6)

Sl st into the next st to finish off, Weave through the last 6 stitches and pull tight to close the leg.

To make the 2nd leg join in yarn but leave a tail before the slip knot (as you did earlier when starting the neck) Leave the tail hanging out between the legs. Repeat the instructions as for the 1st leg but after a few rows stop and sew up the gap between the legs using the tail of yarn you left. Secure with a double knot and hide the tail inside the body. Don’t forget to add plenty of stuffing.

ARMS X2

Starting with your contrasting colour

1. 6 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place marker (6)

2. [ 2-sc inc ] rep (12)

3. [ sc x 1, 2-sc inc ] rep (18)

4-5. [ sc in each st ] (18)

Change to main colour

6-8. [ sc in each st ] (18)

9. [ sc x 4, 2-sc inv dec ] rep (15)

10-13. [ sc in each st ] (15)

14. [ sc x 3, 2-sc inv dec ] rep (12)

15-18. [ sc in each st ] (12)

Sl st into the next st to finish off leaving a long tail. Stuff the arms 2/3rds full and sew to the sides of the body at approx. row 22

Embroider eyes

To embroider the eyes take a piece of black yarn or embroidery thread approx 25 inches long. Insert the needle into the head 12 rows down from the top (see picture 1 below) and bring it out on an angle 2 rows below and 3 stitches along. Keep a tail of yarn hanging out and hold it in place with your finger. You then want to pull down the stitch using your needle and make the first eyelash at the same time, so you will need to bring the needle out approx. 2 stitches along at the centre of the eye pull the stitch down with the tip of your needle and make a lash stitch over the top. This will make a kind of curve and a lash at the same time. (pictures 3 & 4 below) You then just need to make a lash at both ends of the eye. Once you have made the last lash, bring the needle out at the very beginning (where you still have your tail hanging out) Make a double knot with both tail ends and hide the tails inside the head. Repeat for both eyes.

TAIL

1. 6sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place marker

2-3. [ sc in each st ] (6)

4. [ sc x 1, 2-sc inc ] rep (9)

5-6. [ sc in each st ] (9)

7. [ sc x 2, 2-sc inc ] rep (12)

8-9. [ sc in each st ] (12)

10. [ sc x 3, 2-sc inc ] rep (15)

11-12. [ sc in each st ] (15)

13. [ sc x 4, 2-sc inc ] rep (18)

14-15. [ sc in each st ] (18)

16. [ sc x 5, 2-sc inc ] rep (21)

17-18. [ sc in each st ] (21)

19. [ sc x 6, 2-sc inc ] rep (24)

20-21. [ sc in each st ] (24)

22. [ sc x 7, 2-sc inc ] rep (27)

23-24. [ sc in each st ] (27)

25. [ sc x 8, 2-sc inc ] rep (30)

26-27. [ sc in each st ] (30)

Sl st into the next st to finish off, leaving a long tail. Stuff well and pin in place at the back of your dragon. Sew to buttons body, just before closing add more stuffing. 

WINGS X2

Leave a small tail before making a slip knot

1. Ch 15, sc in 2nd ch and each ch along, ch 1 turn (14)

**Working in back loops only from now on and always sc into the 1st stitch of each row (don’t

skip the 1st st)

2-3. sc x 12, ch 1 turn

4-5. sc x 10, Ch 1 turn

6-7. sc x 8, ch 1 turn

Leave a long tail and weave through the end of your wing and pull tight, tie a double knot

using your beginning tail. This will just make the end a more rounded shape.

Sew the wings to the back of your dragon just between the arms.

SPIKES

Using your Small amount of D.K/Light worsted yarn

Ch 55. Measure the chain from the top of the head down to the tip of the tail, just to make

sure it fits. You can easily adjust the chain length to fit.

1. Sc in 2nd ch and each ch along, Ch 4 turn

2. Sl st into the 2nd st along [ ch 4, sl st x 2 ] Repeat to end putting a sc in the last stitch.

Pin the spikes from the top of the head down to the tip of the tail and sew in place beginning

at the tail end.

EARS X2

To make the ears start by putting 6sc in the magic circle, DON’T tighten the loop, ch 2 turn,

Dc in the next 3 stitches, ch 3, dc in the last 3 stitches, ch 2, sl st into the last st to finish off.

Pull the loop tight to close.

Sew the ears either side of the head approx. 8 rows down from the center.

Taking some of your D.K/light worsted yarn embroider some spots onto your dragons body.

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