Amigurumi Henri, the rabbit Free Pattern

Amigurumi Henri, the rabbit Free Pattern

Instructions:

• All parts, except the bow, are crocheted in spiral circles. This means that NO chain stitch is made at the end of a round.

• The number in parenthesis at the end of each round is the total number of stitches in this round.

• If there is a mark behind a parenthesis, then the contents of the parenthesis should be repeated as many times as it says.

Example 1: 4. (2 sc, inc) x 3 (12) That means: In the round 4 are 12 single crochets. You have to crochet: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc

 Example 2: 4. 2 sc, inc x 3 (8) That means: In der round 4 are 8 single crochets. You have to crochet: 2 sc, inc, inc, inc

Abbrevations

  • ch = chain stitch
  • sc = single crochet
  • dec = decrease
  • inc = increase
  • slst = slip stitch
  • dc = double crochet
  • MR = Magic Ring
  • CL = Colour
  • BLO = back loops only
  • FLO = front loops only
  • V-Design (1w,1b): 1 sc white, 1 half sc blue
  • V-Design (2w,1b): 2 sc white, 1 half sc blue
  •  will be explained in more detail below

Materials:

VARIANT 1 (for beginners):

* Yarn:

– Catania Originals Cl1: 2 balls 0257 (brown) by Schachenmayr

– 1 ball Baby Smiles, Lenja Soft by Schachenmayr

* Crochet Hook No. 4.0 for the scarf

* Safty Eyes:

10mm = 1 cm = 0,39 inch

VARIANT 2 (for advanced):

* Yarn: Catania Originals by Schachenmayr,

CL1: 1 ball 0406 (brown)

CL2: 1 ball 0130 (natural white)

CL3: 1 ball 0269 (blue)

* 2 little buttons

* pointed needle for embroidering the eyes

* 1ball Manuela crochetyarn

Nr.15 for the flower on the head

For both versions:

• Crochet Hook No. 3.0

• black yarn for example Catania Originals by Schachenmayr for nose, eyebrows and eyelashes

• polyester fiberfill for filling

• tapestry needle for sewing

• scissors

• pins

• little piece of felt in rose for the cheeks

• music box (optional) to turn it into a musical stuffed toy

V-Design:

The V-Design is used for the “rabbit version 2” when crocheting the body and arms.

V-Design (1w, 1b) in this pattern means this:

  • First crochet 1 sc in white, then pull up a loop with the blue yarn.
  • This started sc is completed with the white, not the blue, yarn.
  • In this picture you can see how this sc (at first blue, then white) looks finished.
  • Now you crochet 1sc again in white. (Then you take the blue thread and complete the sc with white yarn again)

V-Design (2w, 1b) means the same with the difference that between the blue “V” there are always 2 white sc and not 1 white sc only.

Body:

If you crochet „rabbit version 1“, you need CL1 for the whole body. Please ignore the colour instructions.

1. CL2: 6 sc in MR (6)

2. inc x 6 (12)

3. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

4. (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

5. CL3 (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

6. (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

7. CL2 (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

8. (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

9. (5 sc, inc) x 8 (56)

10. CL3 (6 sc, inc) x 8 (64)

11. (7 sc, inc) x 8 (72)

12.-14. CL2 72 sc (72) (3 rounds)

15. CL3 (10 sc, dec) x 6 (66)

16. 66 sc (66)

17.-19. CL2 66 sc (66) (3 rounds)

20.-21. CL3 66 sc (66) (2 rounds)

22. CL2 (9 sc, dec) x 6 (60)

23. V-Design (1w, 1b): 60 sc (60)

24. 60 sc (60)

25. CL3 (8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

26. 54 sc (54)

27. CL2 (4 sc, dec) x 9 (45)

28. V-Design (2w, 1b): 45 sc (45)

29. 45 sc (45), put some fiberfill on the bottom of the body. Place the music box on it. Turn the toy so that the drawstring is in the direction you want to pull it. Use a sewing needle between the 16th and 17th round to pull the drawstring to the outside.

Connect the plate supplied by the manufacturer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. (Or you could tie a wooden ball to it) Later the tail will be crocheted around the drawstring! Fill the body with fiberfill as far as possible. Please make sure that the corners of the movement are not noticeable.

30. CL3 (7 sc, dec) x 5 (40)

31. 40 sc (40)

32. CL2 (6 sc, dec) x 5 (35)

33. 35 sc (35)

Leave a long thread to sew the head to the body.

Leg x 2:

If you crochet „Rabbit version 1“, you need CL1 for the whole body.

Please ignore the colour instructions.

1. CL3 6 sc in MR (6)

2. inc x 6 (12)

3. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

4. CL2 (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

5. V-Design (2w, 1b): 24 sc (24)

6. 24 sc (24), CL2 cut the yarn

7. CL3 (10 sc, dec) x 2 (22)

8. 22 sc (22)

Leave a long thread to sew the leg to the body.

Arm x 2:

If you crochet „Rabbit version 1“, you need CL1 for the whole body. Please ignore the colour instructions. Also crochet round 8 without FLO and don´t crochet the round 9.

1. CL1 6 sc in MR (6)

2. inc x 6 (12)

3. (5 sc, inc) x 2 (14)

4.-7. 14 sc (14) (4 rounds), cut the yarn CL1

8. CL3 FLO: 14 sc (14)

9. BLO of round 7!: 14 sc (14) (see pictures)

10. CL2 dec, 12 sc (13)

11. V-Design (2w, 1b): 13 sc (13)

12. 11 sc, dec (12), cut the yarn CL2.

13.-14. CL3 12 sc (12) (2 rounds), fill the tips with fiberfill Leave the yarn CL3 long enough to sew the arm opening together and then sew it to the body

Tail:

If you crochet Rabbit version 1 don´t crochet round 9.

Plate Diameter 3,2 cm = 1,26 inch

1. CL1 6 sc in MR (6)

2. inc x 6 (12)

3. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

4. (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

5. (11 sc, inc) x 2 (26)

6. 26 sc (26)

7. (11 sc, dec) x 2 (24)

8. (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18), place the plate, which is already tied to the drawstring, into the crocheted hemisphere and continue to crochet. You can pull out the drawstring of the music box so it‘s easier to crochet.

9. 18 sc (18), if the rabbit should not be a music box, then stuff now with cotton wool

10. (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

11. (dec) x 6 (6), Cut the thread and sew the opening very tight. Sew the remaining thread. Instead of a small plate, a non-glazed wooden ball can be attached to the string.

The knot must be very thick and tight and must never come loose, so that the babies do not swallow the ball.

If you do not make a music box, then attach the tail in the middle, approximately on rounds 11-14.

Head:

1. CL1 6 sc in MR (6)

2. (triple) x 3, 3 sc (12) („triple“ means: 3 sc in one stitch)

3. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

4. 3 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 6, 3 sc (24)

5. 3 sc, (2 sc, inc) x 6, 3 sc (30)

6. 3 sc, (3 sc, inc) x 6, 3 sc (36)

7. 3 sc, (4 sc, inc) x 6, 3 sc (42)

8. 42 sc (42)

9. 3 sc, (5 sc, inc) x 6, 3 sc (48)

10. 48 sc (48)

11. 3 sc, (6 sc, inc) x 6, 3 sc (54)

12. 3 sc, (7 sc, inc) x 6, 3 sc (60)

13. 3 sc, (8 sc, inc) x 6, 3 sc (66)

14. 3 sc, (9 sc, dec) x 6, 3 sc (72)

15.-21. 72 sc (72) (7 rounds)

22. (10 sc, dec) x 6 (66)

23. (9 sc, dec) x 6 (60)

24. 60 sc (60)

25. (8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

26. 54 sc (54)

27. (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48), now you should embroider the nose and attach the safety eyes. The exact position follows on the next page. (If you want to embroider the eyes, this will not happen until the head is completely finished – instructions below)

28. (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

29. (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

30. (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

31. (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24), stuff with fiberfill

32. (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

33. (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12), stuff more with fiberfill

34. dec x 4 (8), the round will not be finished.

 Cut the thread, pull it through the 8 stitches with the sewing needle and close the opening. Sew in the end.

Sew the nose:

To get a better idea of the shape of the head and the position of the nose and eyes, stuff the head losely with fiberfill.

The nose covers up the stitches of the magic ring (round 1). It’s wider on the top, than on the bottom. All threads should run from top to bottom or the other way round, not sideways or diagonal. The nose is finished when there is no more of the brown colour shining through. Make shure the nose is not wider or reaching up higher than the stitches oft he magic ring. This effects the appearance oft he rabbit. Leave a long thread to sew on the eyebrows later

Attach the safety eyes:

The eyes are between the 7th and 8th round with a distance of 18 stitches. As soon as you decide where the safety eyelets should go, attach them to the back with the usual clasp.

Melt the back of the safety eyes with a lighter and press them flat. There is also a video on

Please take care that the yarn does not catch fire !!!

How to bring depth to the eyes:

The deepening of the eyes is crucial for the sweet look of the rabbit.

A long needle and a wool thread in the color of the body is needed for this. (The pictures here show a dog, but it is absolutely the same principle with the rabbit 😉 So do not be confused)

1) Enter where the neck will be. (It is about the height of the ears)

2) Go out with the needle to the right side of the right eye.

3) Enter the other side of the eye.

4) Go out with the needle down at the bottom of the head again – a stitch apart from the starting thread.

5) Then skip a stitch and go into the head again and come out on the right side of the other eye.

6) Go back on the other side of the same eye and get out on the bottom of the head again, leaving another stitch between the threads.

Here you can see how the thread runs along the eyes. On the next photo you can see how the thread comes out at the neck.

This last step is made at the very end when the head is finished: Now pull all four threads at the bottom of the head at the same time to reach the desired depth of the eyes. Make sure that the threads at the eyes, disappear under the eyes and are no longer visible. Knot the threads at the bottom of the head as soon as the desired eye depth is reached. Now the head can be sewn to the neck.

Sew on the eyebrows:

The eyebrows are stitched about three rows above the edge of the eye and two stitches wide, as you can see in the picture.

Sew on the cheeks:

Cut out 2 circles of 0.9 cm diameter from felt. Attach them about 0.5 cm below the eye, slightly tot he back of the head, with a fitting sewing thread (see picture).

If you do not have felt, you can apply real rouge on the cheeks or leave them out.

Ear x 2:

If you crochet „Rabbit version 1“, you need CL1 for the whole body. Please ignore the colour instructions.

1. CL1 6 sc in MR (6)

2. (1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)

3. (2 sc, inc) x 3 (12)

4. (3 sc, inc) x 3 (15)

5. (4 sc, inc) x 3 (18)

6. (5 sc, inc) x 3 (21)

7. CL1: 2 sc, CL2: 2 sc, CL1: 17 sc (21)

8. CL1: 1 sc, CL2: 4 sc, CL1: 16 sc (21)

9.-12. CL2: 6 sc, CL1: 15 sc (21) (4 rounds)

13. CL2: 6 sc, CL1: (3 sc, dec) x 3 (18)

14.-15. CL2: 6 sc, CL1: 12 sc (18) (2 rounds) Leave a long thread and then cut it off. Fold the ear on the bottom side and sew it together.

The ears are sewn onto the head between the 17th and 21st round with a distance of 6-7 stitches. It is helpful to first pin them with needles and then sew them on. Make sure your ears are facing tot he front and that the tips are touching each other, like in the pictures on the next page.

Sew on the eyes and bring depth to it (for rabbit version 2)

The eyes are embroidered in a slight arc over the rounds 7-10. The outer two stitches should be doubled, so that the line is slightly thicker.

To make the face even sweeter, the eyes must be slightly deepened in this version.

The principle is the same as in the “rabbit version 1” – with a small difference:

(I purposely used a pink thread here to make it easier to see where the thread is going – use the same color as the body for deepening the eyes)

1) Pierce where the neck will be. (It’s about the height of the ears)

About a stitch over the embroidered eye come out again and stab a stitch further, so that the thread runs exactly over a crocheted stitch and turns unnoticeable.

Directly one stitch further (along the eyelid) come out again.

  • And again a stitch further (along the eyelid) pierce, so that the thread runs exactly along the crocheted stitches again.
  • The individual course of the pink thread does not have to look exactly like this. The main points are: the thread runs along the eye and is unnoticable on the stitches.
  • Come out again on the neck. Repeat this fort he second eye. Pull on all 4 threads until you get the desired depth. Make a Knot.

Sew the head, legs and arms:

The head is sewn along the neck. It is important to make sure that the drawstring is in the back.

Fix the arms and legs with pins, before you sew them on.

The arms are sewn at a slight angle over rounds 24-28.

The legs are sewn over rounds 8-14. Just before a leg is completely sewn on, fill it with fiberfill.

Scarf:

Crochet Hook 4.0

Crochet in rows.. That means, after each row, you have to turn the work.

It is advisable not to crochet too hard with this wool, so that it is easier to see the stitches.

If you overlook a stitch here or there or crochet too much, it‘s not that dramatic because you do not recognize the flaws with this wool. Of course you should still try to make as few mistakes as possible.

1. 35 ch, turn the work

2. In the second ch from the hook: 23 sc, turn the work

3. In the second ch from the hook: 16 sc, turn the work

4. In the second ch from the hook: 15 sc, turn the work

5. In the second ch from the hook:: 14 sc, turn the work

6. In the second ch from the hook: 13 sc, turn the work

7. In the second ch from the hook: 12 sc, turn the work

8. In the second ch from the hook: 11 sc, turn the work

9. In the second ch from the hook: 10 sc, turn the work

10. In the second ch from the hook: 9 sc, turn the work

11. In the second ch from the hook: 8 sc, turn the work

12. In the second ch from the hook: 7 sc, turn the work

13. In the second ch from the hook: 6 sc, turn the work

14 In the second ch from the hook: 5 sc

 Crochet along the edge of the triangle back to row 1 – crochet ca. 13 sc

 Crochet 12 sc along the first row to the beginning.

 Cut the yarn and fasten off.

Crochet along the edge of the triangle back to row 1

– crochet ca. 13 sc

Flower:

Yarn: Manuela Häkelgarn Nr. 15

1. 6 ch close with a slst to a ring

2.-6. 1. -5. petal: 3 ch, 2 dc, 3 ch, 1 sc in the ring

3. Make as many chains as needed for the ribbon to go around the head. Cut off the thread and sew the end of the ribbon to the flower.

If you want, you can also sew the ribbon to the

head, so it doesn´t slip.

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